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This page deals mostly with Nitrous Oxide Systems (NOS) #5122
The use of nitrous oxide (N20) as a performance enhancement has been traced back to World War II, where it was employed to give Allied aircraft "emergency" boosts in both airspeed and altitude capabilities". However, with the advent of jet propulsion at the end of WWII, the government's interest in piston-powered aircraft waned. And for the most part, nitrous R&D was shelved. It was never intended or produced to be used in cars.
N2O = 2 parts nitrogen and 1 part oxygen. It is a chemical gas, and is not manufactured.
Nitrous oxide, N2O, is a colorless, almost odorless gas, that was first discovered in 1793 by the English scientist and clergyman Joseph Priestley (who was also famous for being the first to isolate other important gases such as oxygen, carbon monoxide, carbon dioxide, ammonia, and sulfur dioxide). Priestley made N2O by heating ammonium nitrate in the presence of iron filings, and then passing the gas that came off (NO) through water to remove toxic by-products. The reaction he observed was: 2NO + H20 + Fe N2O + Fe(OH)2
RPM & N2O Activation:
You can safely activate up to 70hp at 3k. The rule of thumb is that the more you squeeze, the higher the rpm is that you activate it at so that the motor will be able to handle it better. On B, D,E, or F series engines I always set it up to activate at 3500 to 4000 w/80hp or more. If you are running direct port, it hits really hard so you have to move up the activation rpm. A single fogger hits softer and one trick is to move the installation point on you intake pipe back farther from the engine so it will engage softer. We put a 110 hp shot on a 1.6 sohc vtec w/4500 rpm activation w/stock block and it ran 12's. Just keep your car well tuned and as SOON as you feel/hear a sputter get OFF the button.
You should gradually bring the nitrous in at a lower rpm range. Certainly a lot lower rpm than your shift point. When running nitrous, the worst thing you can do (with a Honda) is have the NzO flowing prior to VTEC crossover, so make sure that VTEC is over and done with well before you give it the gas. I highly recommend setting the VTEC "real" low, then begin the nitrous (and fuel) flow, so there is no sudden jump in power, which could upset the chassis and tires leading to a lot of inconsistency.
Some cars lean out @ the VTEC crossover. Also, the VTEC Event brings more air into the cylinder, and causes a momentarily lean condition, not good for Nitrous.
Nitrous Tunning: - info from their site
Run the car in third gear on the NOS for 5 secs, shut the car off and pull the plugs, read the plugs, and that will tell you you mixture, from there use a B+M fuel pressure reg and adjust as needed. Once tuned right you can run up to a 75 shot for 14 secs at a time with no problems at all.
When you check your spark plugs for signs of how your system is operating, CHECK EVERY SPARK PLUG, not just the easiest plug to get to. No two cylinders ever run exactly alike. Nitrous has the unique characteristic of cleaning the spark plugs very well and leave them looking like you just installed them. If there are any signs of detonation such as tiny silver or black specks deposited on the porcelain, reduce the nitrous jet size. If the ground strap of the spark plug exhibits a bluish-rainbow coloring, reduce the nitrous jet size. If the ground straps shows signs of melting, reduce the nitrous jet size and change to a spark plug with a shorter and thicker ground strap.
If you system suddenly begins to experience problems even though you haven't changed anything, the
culprit is most often a clogged nitrous or fuel filter. The instructions that come with your system
contain information about where the nitrous and fuel filter screens are located. Check them periodically.
N2O & Water Injection:
hey ryan, forget about the water injection. you can tune the ecu to do what you need. my friend has a
B20VTEC with JRSC in his crx and at the dyno he made more power by dissconnecting the water injection
and just turning the timing back where detontation occured....this is the reason you get a stanndalone....
so you can lose all of the "band-aids". the dyno operator summed it up with this: " water doesn't burn"
posted by: SEEKERone
I will be using the Water Injection for everyday driving, just can't see running N2O all the time. Sooooo,
in order to make them both work, "compromises" will have to made... IMO don't really care if I lose a "little
here are there. It's all about keeping it alive....
Suggestions on Running N2O Line:
QuickHondaNet - Heres how i had mine. Bottle in right side of the hatch. Line went into the access panel for the shock and then down under little storage side storage bin. Then pop the plastic kick panel up, its the piece on the floor under where the door is when its closed. Lift it back and you'll see the fuel/brake lines, run the hose through that area. Have it pop out under the rug under the dash. There are several spots under the dash for it to go into the engine compartment. My favorite one is where the ac lines go through.
sporkcrx - When a buddy of mine has nitrous in his rex it went straight down the middle of the car, under the carpet by the ebrake etc. and up behind the stereo then up through the gromet in the firewall.
fastrex - I ran my nos line like a power wire for an amp. down the passenger side under he carpet in the corner. up through a gromet on the passenger side fire wall. i never had a problem in 2 years and it was not outside the car to get caught on anything.
I ended up going with parts of all three different suggestions... However, I found a hole through the firewall on the very far "right" hand side, down about 6" to 8" (guessing) inches. It has a rubber plug covering it (I am guessing that it's for the Wire Harness, for Right Hand Drive (RHD) models...). Pull the plug then take some kind of light, and shine down there. Then crawl back inside, pulling the material back far to see the light and hole... I ended up cutting/removing some of sound deading rubber mat and foam covering that area for easier access.
WARNING - Some kind of protection needs to be added to "whatever" your passing through there (wire insulation is not enough). Since there is no rubber gromment covering the metal edge of the hole. Soooo, wire chaffing/shorting out would be a very serious problem, as time/miles go by. Not only making whatever you have going through there stop working, BUT a FIRE could be started from a wire(s) shorting out...
I have been following some FAA standards on wiring, and using the teflon selant. No more then "3" strands of wire can get broken/cut while making-up any given connection. Start applying the selant "3" threads above the end of the fitting. Anyway, this is what I found out several years ago, soooo they/FAA might have changed things tho. I never have had any trouble from the wiring I have done, to using the selant. Following these couple of rules....
Nitrous Pressure:
Nitrous pressure should be kept consistent to obtain optimum performance. All NOS systems are
designed to work best with a bottle pressure of 900-950 PSI. Pressure is determined by the amount of
nitrous contained in the bottle and temperature. The chart on this page shows what happens to nitrous
at various temperatures. Accordingly, it's a good idea to use an NOS bottle heater and/or blanket.
Likewise, maintaining consistent line filling is important...which is why most racers use an NOS purge
valve to release nitrous vapor from the feed line. This provides liquid nitrous to the inlet of the
solenoid(s) for better consistency and repeatability.
Yes the thermostat must mount under the strap and touch the surface
of the bottle
AN-NPT Threads & Fittings:
AN-NPT Threads & Fittings - Tables showing sizes.
Nitrous General Info:
NOS bottle heater kit, part #14164
10 lbs. Bottle Warmer Kit #14164 - installation instructions
10 lbs. Bottle Warmer Kit #14164 - parts list & description
Generally, ambient temperatures of 80-90 degrees F will allow for best power potential of NOS kits.
With the injection of nitrous, a tremendous intercooling effect reduces intake charge temperatures by 75 degrees or more. Boost is usually increased as well, adding to even more power.
NOS manufactures systems for virtually any stock engine application. The key is to choose the correct kit for a given application; i.e., 4 cyl. engines normally allow an extra 40-60 HP, 6 cyl. engines usually work great between 75-100 extra HP, small block V8's (302/350/400cid) can typically accept up to 140 extra HP, and big block V8's (427-454) might accept from 125-200 extra HP. These suggested ranges provide maximum reliability from most stock engines using cast pistons and cast crank with few or no engine modifications.
For higher HP applacations, genreally, forged aluminum pistons are one of the best modifications you can make. Retard igntion timing by 4-8 degrees (1 to 1-1/2 degrees timing retard per 50 HP gain). In many cases a higher flowing fuel pump may be necessary. Higher octane (100+) racing type fuel mya be required as well as spark plugs 1 to 2 heat ranges colder than normal with gaps closed .025"-.030". For gains over 250 HP, other important modifications could be necessary in addition to those mentioned above. These special modifications may include a forged crankshaft, a high quality race type connecting rods, a high output fuel pump dedicated to feeding the additional fuel requirements of the nitrous system, and a racing fuel with high specific gravity and an octane rating of 110 or more. For more specific information about your application, please contact the NOS technical dept.
NOS recommends and sells only the automotive grade, called Ny-trous Plus. Ny-trous Plus contains a minimal amount of sulfur dioxide (100 ppm) as a deterrent to substance abuse. The additive does not affect performance.
NOS Catalog - online
FAQ's on NOS Systems - website
More FAQ's on NOS Systems - website
***THE NEW NITROUS INFO PAGE*** - info for starting out. However, beware about any info reguarding the use of a "WET" system, and spaying "BEFORE" the Throttle Body (TB), on a JR SC'ed engine. No "liquid" period should ever be introduced before the TB. There is a possiability of the teflon epoxy coating on the rotors, will start chipping off... However, it's your car and sc/warranty, soooo do whatever you want...Nitrous TroubleShooting:
Most common problems are:
1. Micro switch not working properly- test it by removing the wires from the switch, and physically touching them together. If it works then, buy a new micro switch.
2. Switch or power source related to switch is not working properly. Test this by taking the switch wire and physically touching it to the battery. If it works, then buy new switch, or wire it to a different spot.
3. Wire connections aren’t working or bad ground. Re-ground and test. Then use a test light, and work backwards from the battery. You should be able to find it, if there is a bad connection that way.
If you hear absolutely nothing, then it’s an electrical problem. If the solenoids click, but still no shooting, then it’s a bigger problem.
Nitrous Pressure Gauge:
NOS Gauge - You will need a purge adaptor and a braided stainless steel line.
You will need some 4an steel braided line to connect the N2O pressure gauge (anywhere). Best place to hook it up at, is closet to the noids.
You can purchase an Auto Meter N20 guage (part#4328) and the Auto Meter Guage Line (part# 3228 - 6foot line) if you want the dash mounted guage.
Bottle mount gauge is -4an threads
Parts List:
ZDYNE Gold SECU
All SECUs come with the Clutch Cut*, rev limits, hot rev temp, and AC Shutoff.
* Additional $50 charge for Nitrous or Clutch Cut options may apply when you send an ECU which
not contain the needed circuitry (usually 1988 ECUs such as the PM6-A080) Which could be cheaper, rather then
picking-up a newer one (90 & 91) ECU...
Adding pins is easy....removing pins is a bitch...and i even have the right tool to do and it is still a pain. 18 guage wire was what i used for vtec and nos solenoids from ecu but i used 12 or 14 wire to power the nos solenoid...the wire from the ecu just trips the relay to power the solenoid so it doesn't need much - SEEKERone
Without any MSD parts by using a ZDYNE Gold ECU:
ZDYNE Gold SECU
Summit Racing Pricing
Jetting for Single Fogger Dry or Wet:
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When you check your spark plugs for signs of how your system is operating, CHECK EVERY SPARK PLUG,
not just the easiest plug to get to. No two cylinders ever run exactly alike. Nitrous has the unique
characteristic of cleaning the spark plugs very well and leave them looking like you just installed
them. If there are any signs of detonation such as tiny silver or black specks deposited on the
porcelain, reduce the nitrous jet size. If the ground strap of the spark plug exhibits a bluish-rainbow
coloring, reduce the nitrous jet size. If the ground straps shows signs of melting, reduce the nitrous
jet size and change to a spark plug with a shorter and thicker ground strap.
MSD Ignition & RPM Window Switch
MSD BTM - retards timing as it measure booost - Used for FI'ed cars
MSD Dig 6+ - retards timing as soon as you arm the N2O kit - Used for NOS cars.
MSD RPM Window Activation Switch - Activates and de-activates the N2O kit at a preselected RPM's.
Nitrous Re-Fill Stations:
Authorized NOS Refill Stations - EXCELL listings across the US
NOS #5122 Wiring Diagram and Plumbing:
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