Honda's Speed/Density Fuel Injection system uses engine RPM, MAP sensor input voltage. To determine the initail base for the Pulse Widith (PW) for the injectors. From their it is fined tuned even more from the input of some of the other sensors
White smoke out the exhaust, does not always mean a blown head gasket. Which some fools are to stupied not to beleive. However trying to convience them differently, is like telling somebody that something is hot and will burn them, yet they will still try to feel/pick-up it. It can be caused by the engine running a little rich, or from a failing sensor to name a few. Another example is when running N2O, the extra fuel that is added when it's been activated. N2O is coloress so it cannot be causing it, this is also a visual clue when someone is using it. When I had my supercharger installed, I was told that I should be seeing a little white smoke too when in boost. I also saw an HF with a bad dist., it had white smoke pouring out of the exhaust, until it was replaced. When adjusting the fuel pressure on mine, it to will have white smoke out the exhaust at idle, if it's set a little too high.
Some Checks for a Blown Head Gasket:
Try using a screwdriver or short peice of hose to listen for sounds. Place the flat end of the screwdriver or one end of the hose, against the valve cover, ect... Then put your ear against the handle or other end of the hose, and listen. Good way to find out which lifter(s) need adjusting, ect...
Standered Civic spark plug firing order 1-3-4-2.
Engine Compression:
High Compression -
12:1 should be the highest you could go on pump gas. posted by: exospeedAMcrx
Compression Calculator: - Figure out
what kind of compression ratio can occure from different head, piston, ect... combinations.
Compression Test - post
However, anytime you are pulling the plugs while the engine is hot. Anti-Seize should be applied to the threads while the engine is still cold. Otherwise you run the risk of pulling the threads out of the head along with the plug, due to the material differance between the two...
Oil Pressure:
Engine Weights:
DX/HF/Si Ignitors and Coils are interchangeable.
HKS Sport is quiet, deep at WOT. Only CRX exhaust available with dual tips. 50mm pipe, 2 60mm tips. Aluminized black, tips polished stainless. - post
Timming Marks & Info:
The "single" white mark on
the crank pully is TDC - it's used to set the cam gear timing, the center mark of the
3 marks is 16* BTDC - your ignition timing mark at 750 RPM. However these marks may be hard to
see/find due to dirt, oil, ect... build-up. Some cleaning may be required to find them.
Make sure your cam gears are lined up with the crank pully. One tooth on a givin pully/gear with timming belt, is anywhere around 8 to 16+ degrees off. I have ran across several different numbers, so which one is right is another question tho. However the timing will be off no matter what the numbers are, and will have to be re-adjusted. Trying to adjust the timing to componsate for the mis-alignment is not recommanded at all.
DX and SI Heads are identical in every way, shape and form, with the exception of the cam, which have the same exact lobe patterns. The only difference is in the mounting of the cam gear/pully. If you put the SI head on the DX, you'll end up having to buy an Adjustable cam gear, with it all lined up, it will be 1/2 of a tooth off on the DX block! posted by: djhankb
Adjustable Cam Gear SOHC: post
For NA or nitrous
setups using stock cam, set cam gear at 3 degree retard. Now reset the ignition
timing to 18-19 BTDC.
Worth a useable 6-7 hp and 2 tenths at the track.
Advancing the Timing:
You can advance the timing 2-4 degrees, anymore then that will show no more improvement. However
going with a higher octane may be required due to pinging/detonation. Also, detonation can
not always be heard. So inspection of the plugs will be required for safty reasons. Otherwise
damage could be occuring. Mostly showing up as cracked ringland(s) that end-up damaging
cylinders and heads. From the peices of the piston(s) breaking off, and bouncing around in the
cylinder(s).
Cam Timing - post
High Nox Failed e-check (NO)
Hey guys,I work at e-check in cincinnati, oh and for my 85 si, I dropped 90% of my Nox with the
cat. I put a new cat on, was reading 1900 now im reading 170. That was just with a replacement
cat. Although through all my experiences Nox is ussually, o2 sensor, EGR valve, Pcv
valve, that kind of stuff, if the other numbers weren't that low, you may want to try
a new cat!
post
A high NOx means the combustion chamber temps are TOO HIGH. This should mean the air/fuel
mixture is too lean. A simple fix to this is NOT to retard the timing, but instead ADVANCE it.
You retard it to fix the other two, HC/CO. But a good cat should handle those, since our cat's
are 2 stage, they do not affect NOx. So figure out a way to richen the fuel mixture enough to
pass.
More info EMissions
Figure about 15% loss through the drivetrain when figureing hp
Timing Belt Tension Pully = 14mm shallow socket
Coolant bypass hose from the thermastat to head - I ended up using a hose from NAPA (part# 10701) then trimmed it to size, using the old one for a pattern.
Lower Radiator Hose - NAPA part# 8124
How Too's and Info:
Distributar Numbers
NGK
Spark Plugs - info on Heat Ranges
Hondaswap.com -
Forums, Info, ect...
Beat Speeding
Tickets - taken from MSN
91' Helm CRX - manual
online
Main Relay Fix
- post on how to (Thanks to John - 7PSI CRRX)
OBDI ECU plugs in a
1988-1991 CRX
Home Made
Poly-Urethane Motor Mounts - post on DYI
Idle Adjusting
- steps and pics.
Alternator
Replacement Tips
Distributor
Rebuild - General Info
Tranny
Oil Change - How Too
ZC gears 1-4, Si final drive,
HF 5th gear - does this work?
Mista Bone's Tranny
Page - rebuild & ratios info
More info on tranny
ID
Tranny
Rebuild - with pics
Installing an Si FD
into a ZC Transmission - swapping gears
Cooling Fan &
Relay - troubleshooting links
How Too - Several Different
Tips/Instructions
HQW TOO'S - How too's
for modding Honda's
Ignition Kill
Switch - Pics on how too
Clutch 101 by
Rocket - Very Good Info on Clutches
More Clutch
101
Mustang Year &
Engine Size
150mph & 9500rpm
Speedo - from UK post
Plug Wires - FYI about
todays plug Wires (good reading)
How do
I "read" a spark plug? - color pics
All About Your
Engine's Spark Plugs - more color pics
Dynos in Oklahoma
CRX Math -
Transmission/RPM/Speed Calculator
Engine Specs - Honda
Engine Spec.
ZC
manuel - here it is... if your interested.
Haynes - website
to order manual
O2
Elimanator - post
JDM Swaps to USDM*
Home Brewed Octane Booster.... hehehehe
The proper
spelling is toluene, but can be spelled a couple of different ways. Just
make sure your getting the right stuff.
Toluene/Toulene
FAQ - as an octane booster.
More Info - as an octane
booster and different grades of gas
Usually, adding a bottle of that OTC stuff will only give you a few points (like decimal points). So you'll end up with 92.4 or so when adding it.
D16A6 with Z6 Mini-Me Head Conversion:
Mini-Me Head/Engine Conversion:
The Z6 head is from a
92-95 Civic Si or EX. The Y8 is from the 96-98 Civic EX. The reason people say
that the Y8 is better is because of the higher compression ratio. If you use the
Z6 head, you need to do a bit of modification to the dist.
There is no size difference between the D16A6/D15B2 & D16Z6 exhaust ports (as far as I cna tell. After comparing the two exhaust gaskets. The intake ports also appear to be the same, in the main oval area of the port. However, I did not have D16A6 intake gasket, to compare the upper portion of the injector area of the head. Hopefully, I will be able to get some pics of the two heads and gaskets togather... However, if someone comes-up with a size differance, from measuring the actual ports. Would you please e-mail: mailto:chipman13@yahoo.com
The Y7 engine is from the 96-98 Honda Civic DX/LX and only has 106 horsepower, whereas the Z6 has 125, and the Y8 has 127. Make sure you remember that these numbers are for the engine as a whole, not just the head on an A6 block.
Difference in the combustion chamber volume between a 96+ DX head and the D16Z6's head. Both heads happen to have 34.6cc combustion chambers. However, the newer y8 head has 32.8cc's.
VTEC Activation for Z6 & Y8 - post by: NoahK
I have dyno tested both the d16z6 and d16y8 cams:
For a d16z6 cam the optimal rpm seems to be around 4500 rpms. The best VTEC point will move
around a bit from car to car, but 4500 seems to be about average (4800 is stock on the d16z6).
For a d16y8 the best rpm for VTEC is 5200, the stock time. Main reason is the intake air speed
is not moving fast enough, for VTEC to operate correctly in a N/A engine. However, running Forced
Induction is a different story tho.
NAPA carries Honda Valve Guides for $2.08 apeice, compared to the local Dealer which wanted $7.68 apeice.
In order to gain the full horsepower advantage from this set-up, a P28 ECU has to be swapped in. If you compare the fuel & timming maps/tables between the two ECU's, the P28(Z6) has major differances in the timing map/table, as compared to the P6(A6 Si).
Changes in the fuel maps/tables are not as much. To compare the two, goto ECU's. (they are in EXCELL format). Adding a APEXi V-AFC or a Feild's controller well not make that much of a differance, mainly because you can only modify the fuel curve, not the timming maps/tables.
VTEC Valve Cover - 92'-93' didn't have VTEC on the cover, 94'-95' did.
post
Mini-Me Parts
List:
Z6
Head Swap - post
Dr. Ohms Engine Swap -
D16Z6 & D16Y8
92-95 1.6L SOHC
VTEC - into the 4G civic/crx
Mini-Me VTEC - Web Site
on swap
More Than You Ever Wanted to Know About Motor Oil - good reading
The scoop
from Larry.... - TOO about staged mods for my JRSC
Endyn Monster Kit
(AKA LS-VTEC) What you do is install a type R head (along with some other
small stuff) on your LS bottom end which will give you VTEC. This mod is HUGE
with the CRX's with the LS/VTEC crowd. I rode in one awhile back who was putting
out around 220whp N/A!!!! OMG that sh!t is fast!!!
TPS Adjustment:
With the Key On, Engine Off hook up a
voltmeter to the TPS. @ idle (closed throttle), voltage should be close to .5V
and @ WOT voltage should be 4.5V.
The best way to adjust the TPS voltage is @ idle (closed throttle). While Key
On, Engine Off, hook up voltmeter between the yel/wht & grn/wht and observe
reading. If it needs to be adjusted, loosen the TPS mounting and move the TPS
until voltmeter reads close to .5V. The check engine light will let you know
immediately whether you missed up or not.
Any '90-'93 Accord will work, as will any MPFI '88-'91 Civic or CRX. '90-'93 Integras should
also be fine. You're looking for a TPS that looks like the one you've got.
A/C Removal:
When you remove the A/C, your fan will no longer work. The wiring is integrated together.
What is happening is that your fan is not gettin a ground signal any more. You will have to rewire
the fan up to a switch. I have removed the A/C on several CRX's and this happens
every time.
post by: Steve91
Pedal Dis-Assembly:
There is a bolt up in the dash..... and it was a @#$% to get to. Had to take the inst panel out to see it. It was hidden behind the two heat/ac ducts that run behind the dash there .... once removed the bolt head was in plain sight. had to pull the master cyl back for clearance to wiggle bracket out. Have it in hand and looking for my local welder .... may be going to the boneyard for a fresh one.... then have a welder beef it up! Dont want this trouble again! Pulling the seat out was a great help too!
Catch Can for Oil:
Catch Can - instuctions
B16 & B18 & B20 Info:
B Series Rod
Length, R/S ect...
B16
Specs - B16 weighs 309 lbs wet.
B16 Vacuum Diagram -
post
TJS Honda Site/
The B16 Resource... hallusin8
HondaWorks hybrid.honda-perf
FF Squad - InternalLinks
Frank motors and factory
VTEC motors - post
C-SpeedRacing - How Too's on
B18 install
B16
Suspension Upgrade - Stiffer springs are advisable, as are stiffer shocks.
Most lowering springs are not stiff enough. Call Progress Group and get what
they recommend. The car will handle perfectly if you follow their
recommendations.
Want stiffer, NON-LOWERING front springs for your
B-swap?
Then get 1984-1987 Prelude front springs. These
springs are quite a bit stiffer than stock CRX
springs. But they are actually a little shorter (about
.25 inch). This slightly decreased length, when
combined with the increased weight of a B-series
drivetrain and the increased stiffness of the spring,
results in pretty much stock ride height. Expect a
stiffer ride, though. And a better shock might not be
a bad idea (considering your stockers are old anyhow).
Best yet, these springs can be picked up dirt cheap at
your local Pick-And-Pull (or similar self-service
yard).
One word of warning. DON'T get 1986-1989 Accord
springs. Unless, of course, you think the 4X4 look is
cool for a CRX. Although the 1986-1989 Accord is
similar in many ways to the 1988-1991 Prelude, the
springs are about an inch longer. Also, 1990-1993
Integra springs (widely touted as a good replacement)
are too long (similar in length to the Accord).
B16B, but those are hard to come by. They put out 184hp@8200rpm, and 118lb-ft@7500rpm.
Another possibility is using a B20 bottom end. With a B17 crank, you will end up with even more displacement (over 1.8 liters) and the same revvability. Since you are using off-the-shelf components (a JDM B20B long block costs about $800-$850), the overall cost will likely be less. post
All vtec engines have a VTEC solenoid. that's a dead give away. Now if it's
an LS or CRV/B20 vtec engine, just look at the engine block stamp, it should
read one of the follwoing:
All true VTEC blocks have one of these ID stamps:
Well thought I'd give little more detail. ALSO... there are frankensteins.
Like LS-VTEC (B18A or B18B block with a B16 or B18 VTEC head) or CR-VTEC (b20Z
or B20B block with a b18 or b16 vtec head). These produce good hp and great
torque (track monsters). If you plan to go turbo ZC or LS motors are good
choices because of low compression. Hope that helps.
posted by: cleverkellen
B18 Info:
The B18A in the 92-93 integras are 140HP and the B18B is 142 HP and the ZC is
only 128HP, not 130.
The Del Sol VTEC and the EK Si have the same engine
(which is a B16A2 actually, i think) and it is 160HP.
JDM SiR-II engine in
the EG civic is the B16A3 and it is 170HP.
JDM SiR engine in the EF civic is
the B16A1 and it is 160HP.
Then there is the B17A1 which is in the 92-93 GS-R
which is 160HP, but with more torque than the B16A and B16B. posted by: shadowboy
4 into 1 headers, like the stock JDM Integra Type "R" generally produce
greater peak horsepower. 4-2-1 designs tend to produce a broader torque band but
lower peak horsepower.
Build your own header...
As far as fit, any header made for a U.S. B16A powered car, i.e. 94-97 Del Sol VTEC or 99-00 Civic Si header will bolt up and lineup properly with the stock 88-91 Si catalytic converter and exhaust.
As for O2 placement, no U.S. B16A header has proper O2 placement. 85-91 fuel injected Hondas (OBD-none) use an unheated single wire O2 sensor that should be mounted within 10-12 inches of the exhaust port. The O2 sensors need to be heated by the exhaust gases to give an accurate reading. The stock 89-91 (OBD-none) B16A ECU uses two single wire O2 sensors, one in the collector of cylinders 2 and 3 and one in the collector of cylinders 1 and 4. I also believe the Primary O2 gets greater weight in the determination of the overall fuel mixture of the engine. This would explain why the common practice of switching the O2 sensors when a B16 experiences partial throttle roughness works. Switching should actually cause a problem if both O2s are working properly.
Just as a side note, the stock exhaust will cost you H.P. as will the 10+
year old cat that you have on your car.
posted by: BrianG
B20 & B17 Crank - (over 1.8 liters):
Another possibility is using a B20 bottom end. With a B17 crank, you will end up with even more displacement (over 1.8 liters) and the same revvability. Since you are using off-the-shelf components (a JDM B20B long block costs about $800-$850), the overall cost will likely be less.
Differances in Headers 4-1 & 4-2-1:
4-2-1 is for
midrange power/autocross/street driving, and should be coupled with a smaller
diameter exhaust.
4-1 is for top end power/road racing/drag strip, and should be coupled to a bigger diameter exhaust.
Hasport H22 Kit:
It is on the list of swap kits, but
it's developement has been bumped a couple of times due to more pressworthy,
marketable and lucrative kits. Namely the K- series engine mounts into various
bodies and stock replacement mounts. "And let me warn you all, it will not be an
inexpensive kit, nor will it be entirely bolt in". BrianG
- posted
Reading
The engine killers -
detonation and preignition
Compression
Session (NHRA)
Engine
Basics: Detonation and Pre-Ignition
Piston deposits as precursors of
detonation
The Causes of
Internal Engine Knock, and How to Eliminate it.
ImportHookup
GroupBuy
CarParts
KaleCo - Providing those hard-to-find
auto parts at reasonable pricing.
Summit
DiscountImportParts
Car-Part - used parts
|
Engine: |
Stock HP: |
Stock Torque:
|
SC HP:
|
SC Torque:
|
|
D16A6 |
95.9 |
91.6" |
142.9" |
126.8 |
|
D16Z6 |
105.9 |
99.9" |
142.5" |
124.9 |
|
D16Y8 |
100.3 |
97.8" |
142.5" |
124.2 |
|
B16A2 |
138 |
98.6" |
190.8" |
138 |
Top 2.5" tension/idler pully for supercharger belt = 17mm, part# 051-628
Gasket for Intake to superchager - part# 997-025
Y8 Boost Upgrade:
88_SC_CRX_Si
i work at dealer as
a tech...i got to compare the sizes of different pulleys...Y8 was biggest which
means more boost...also allows the useage of a four ribbed belt as long as you
change out the alternator pulley (use 92-95 civic alt pulley--remember there are
two manufacturers)four rib belt doesn't stretch as quickly and doesn't need to
be as tight to avoid slippage(=less wear on idler pulleys)
post by:
SEEKERone
I want to give SEEKERone Super Huge PROPS for his help and
time, he has shared with me on setting up my ZDYNE GOLD SECU VTEC, N2O pin and
wiring info, and the Y8 pully.... Y8
Cank Pully - Majestic
Forced Induction Integras - Fourm
ZDYNE Tunes - different tunes from peeps
Opinions on Endyn
Superchargers... - form your own opion
The Whole Truth
About Endyn (MUST READ!!)
Nitrous vaporizes at -137 degrees Farenheit. If the blower has a Delta rise of 100 degrees you would still be at -37 degrees below zero!
Boost/Vacuum Gauge Readings - Vaccuum readings will rise when you have a compression problem... that is, the values will be closer to ZERO. Vac reading reduces to about 1" less of Hg (~19") in very cold foggy weather.
Supercharger installed! Have question regarding A/F gaugeTurbo Parts
List - Parts list and Info.
Boost:
Boost guage, "T"'s into the vacuum line to the FPR.
The water injection hole has a very fine (and unique) size and pitch... 8mm x .75 to be exact.
Try to find a rebuilt IHI turbo from a Subaru Legacy. That is the exact type of turbo you are looking for. Max boost of about 7psi and fast spooling.
Belts & Pulleys:
After a few thousand miles, call
Jackson and tell them that your idler rollers are grooved and they'll send you a
new set for free. Send them to John for maching Send me your old ones, I'll
machine them down and put a steel sleeve on them and you'll never run into that
problem again... Also, go buy a 6-rib belt (# K6-485) and with a utility knife,
slice it down the middle to make 2 belts. Works great for me, though I prefer to
use a shorter belt. K6-475. I think the kit has a 620mm belt, you might try a
605, 610, or 615mm) SC belts changed every 15,000 miles or they start ripping
up. Contact for SC Idler Pully Replacement: mr detail (Moss Motors a.k.a Jackson
Racing) send these to John for maching and steel sleeve.
J&S Electronics Ultra SafeGuard -
controls timing
TPS Relay Trick:
Fools ECU into breaking out of
closed loop mode, cuts out mid throttle lean condition.
Relay-Trick Picture
(diagram)
Endyn Stepper Pulley:
ENDYN's "Stepper"
Pulley (for JRSC's) - $159.95
ENDYN modification
package - $1495.00
Magnuson does the S-Tube port for only $300 on an M45.
(post on FI) - $300.00 (third party)
Info on Lsyholm and
other types of forced induction
Threads & Fittings - Tables showing sizes.
ACT makes a 21 spline (88 upgrade they call it) 212mm disk that will work with a ACT 91 pressure plate and 91 flywheel.
Tranny/Clutch Info
Final Drive Ratio:
There are also three different diameters for the flywheels friction surface (where it meets the clutch disk): '88 uses one size, '89 another, and '90-'91 yet another.
In general, you want to keep the transmission, clutch, and flywheel all the same year. Unless you've got a '90 or '91, in which case they're interchangeable between those two years.
Just to add method to the madness, you can have an '88 Si tranny. The clutch for that is smaller in diameter. So you could use a '90-'91 flywheel, a '90-'91 pressure plate with a clutch disk from an '87 Prelude Si (21 splines). This gives you the abilty to use the bigger clutch, and have the correct spline count on the '88 tranny......(21 splines). - This is someones actual set-up...
HF Fifth Gear Installiton
NAPA carries Fuel Injector Rebuild Kits, saving you considerable $$$$$ over the Dealer.
Fuel pressure is maintained in the fuel rail, when the car is turned off. An outlet check valve in the pump itself. The closed pental of the fuel injector, and the fuel pressure regulator are used to do this. If pressure drops, look for a problem with one of th above mentioned. If pressure drops after the car has set for awhile.
Fuel Pressure & Pump Volume
Pressure should run from 35 - 41 psi. With the vacuum line disconnected from fuel pressure regulator.
Pump should output 233cc (7.8 oz) in 10 seconds @ 12v.
Testing:
If fuel flow is less then 233cc (7.8 oz) in 10 seconds, or no fuel at all, check for:
Fuel pump current draw of approx 3.5-5 amps, on a fully warmed engine.
Fuel Pump Replacement: posted by: SlowC
If you are
going to swap the pump, get the bbk 110 pump for the 87-93 mustang, then all you
have to do it connect wire to wire, this will save you about $70-$90 going with
the mustang, other then that the honda BBK is different in one way, the Honda
one has connecting harness's and the mustang one doesn't. Save a few bucks!
They're the same other wise...
TPS Adjustment
With the Key On, Engine Off hook up a voltmeter to
the TPS. @ idle (closed throttle), voltage should be close to .5V and @ WOT
voltage should be 4.5V.
The best way to adjust the TPS voltage is @ idle
(closed throttle). While Key On, Engine Off, hook up voltmeter and observe
reading. If it needs to be adjusted, loosen the TPS mounting and move the TPS
until voltmeter reads close to .5V. The check engine light will let you know
immediately whether you messed up or not.
CarTech Adjustment - Lets say it is 7 psi of boost. This means that your peak fuel pressure will be around 95 psi (your baseline of 60 psi plus 35 psi (riserate x psi boost = 5 x 7)).
Once these numbers are known, setting up the Cartech is simple. Adjust the large threaded screw on top of the Cartech using a 14mm wrench and a 3/16" hex key. Pull the vaccuum line off of the signal input of the Cartech and plug it with your finger or small screw/bolt. With the car at warm idle, simply turn the adjustment screw (sticking out of the center of the Cartech on top) using the 3/16" hex key until you reach 60 psi on the fuel pressure gauge. Once this point is set, secure your setting with the jam nut using a 14mm wrench. Reconnect the vaccuum signal hose.
Next, open up the bleeder screw ONE full turn from the fully closed position... and go drive the car. Watch the fuel pressure gauge under WOT runs. If it reaches 95 psi, then you are done. If it is slightly higher or lower, adjust accordingly and make another test drive. Closing the bleeder increases peak fuel pressure, while opening the bleeder decreases the fuel pressure.
Note: with stock injectors, you will NOT use the restrictor inside the vaccuum signal source. It is only used if you have larger injectors and you need to reduce the rise-rate significantly.
88'-91' Fuel Pump Color Code - postBosch Fuel Pump
anyone?? - post (Went ahead and got one).
Endyn Fuel Pump/Bosch
10208 - theoldone
DSM Fuel
Injectors - post on which ones to use.
Use RC injectors.... - RC
Engineering
Go with the ENDYN modded Bosch fuel pump if you plan on getting more
serious.... Got mine, got yours?;)?
If your staying under 10psi the
Walbro/Holley should be fine.
Reading:
Here is the best way to size up the
proper injector for your car.
As for the intake, here's what TOO had to
say:
__________________________________________
Air Induction: A properly
designed induction tube with air cleaner should be used. I don't favor tubes
that are of small consistent diameters, as the column of air in the tube is to
slow to properly react to a supercharged engine's needs. Although, a cold air
box is needed, the short large diameter induction tubes are the correct route to
go. They are also somewhat less expensive. Do not, under any circumstances, use
one that tapers smaller as it approaches the throttle body. I don't care what
anyone says, throttle bodies like slow moving air to draw from, and to do them
right, the tube should actually grow larger as it nears the throttle body.
Figuring Spring
Rate - After Cutting
Spring & Rates more info.
Differances in Rear
Strutt - 88' & 89' vs. 90' & 91'
Si Weight Distibution: (Front/Rear)
Type R Springs/Shocks:
Another tip on the 88's....
The Integra Type R springs/shocks "DO" fit. This is a trick some 2nd gen
autocrossers use, to get the rear nice and stiff without bolting up sway bars. 94-01 integra
springs have a stiffer spring rate.
Suspension - crix16 posted 12-27-2000 19:46 Suspension Techniques - has good anti-swaybars for an affordable price. They are 27mm, i think, and were the cheapest set when I was looking to buy mine. Check 'em out. Price runs around $137 @ lightningmotorsports
Coil Overs:
Taken from a post - Coil-overs really
serve no purpose on the street unless you plan to drop over 2.5", or want to set
the corner weights, don't waste the money. I don't think most people even know
what coil-overs were made for sometimes. It's not as easy as it
sounds....
Dropping & Camber:
Adjust your suspension about 1 degree for every 1" drop. Dropping 2.5" you'll need a more exspensive camber kit that will go beyond 2 degrees, to correct your alignment. Otherwise, you will wear the inside half of the tread out *VERY* quickly. Also, the need for a aftermarket shock is because they have tighter valving, this is necesary for stiffer springs and lowering springs.
Lower/Rear Control Arm Bushings (LCA)
Lower/Rear
Control Arm Bushings - dingus84 posted 12-29-2000 21:39
the rear control
arm is the metal arm that goes perpindicular to the car it attaches to the frame
and the rear trailing arm it's about a foot long. it is the arm that the strut
attaches to on the bottom. It has 3 bushings, the 2 on the outside are the
control arm bushings and the one in the middle is the strut bushing. You can buy
new polyurethane bushings from Energy Suspension or Prothane and they are pretty
cheap under $50 Canadian so probably like $30 USD. The arm is really easy to
take off but you need to press the OEM bushings out. You can do this by your
self with a bit of heat and the right size socket or take the arm to Honda to
get them pressed out (I think it's 1/2 hour labour and the polyurethane bushings
can be pushed in by hand. I would never pay anyone to do it since it's fairly
easy.
EASY STEPS TO REMOVE AN OEM LOWER CONTROL ARM BUSHING AND REPLACE WITH A
POLYURETHANE BUSHING THAT DOES NOT REQUIRE A HYDRAULIC PRESS-
Spring Removal - post
You will need:
This is what i do for takin the springs off the strut. Loosen the 14mm nut on top of the strut till its a few turns from "springing". Then place the 5mm allen wrench in the top of the strut. Turn it so its locked against the ground. place a tire against the allen wrench and use an object (ie, post, house, another tire) behind the strut and turn the 14mm nut w/ the wrench. Boing, it will spring, watch where all the parts go. Usually they will stay within 1 ft. cut the bumpstops in half (ie per most spring manufacturers recommendations) and do the same steps backwards.
Stock & Different AfterMarket Spring Rates: - taken from a previous post
Here's the rates I have (keep in mind, stock, Front: 250, Rear: 150):
Suspension Technique:
Normal springs: Front: 218, Rear: 105-150
(progressive)
Speedtech springs: Front: 315, Rear: 185
Neuspeed: Street: Front: 275, Rear: 225
Super Street: Same as street just
lower drop
Race: Front: 575, Rear: 450
Tokico:
Springs: Front: 266, Rear: 156
Torsion Bars
|
Model: |
Diameter: |
Length: |
|
'84 CRX 1.3 |
20mm |
24.5" |
|
'84 CRX 1.5 |
20mm |
24.5" |
|
2WD Wagon |
21mm |
22.5" |
|
4WD Wagon |
21mm |
24.75" |
Suspension for a CRX; what's the best?
Rear brake drum removal bolt size is: 8mm x1.25 pitch bolt
Front Pad Tips
When changing front pads, pay "close"
attention to the the retainers. If you look at one, one side is taller then the
other, by a little bit. This goes for upper and lower, even tho they are
different in design. If installed wrong, you won't be able to slide the pad in,
the tall side will be sticking up to high. Causing a interferance problem with
the pad, and a HUGE MESS from the "Disc Brake Quiet" stuff....
hehehehe
True Stop Front Retainer Kit (NAPA)# - 4982795 x 2 @ $9.89
(OOOUUUCCCCHHHH......:( for what you get)
Make sure to pick-up something like "Disc Brake Quiet" (NAPA), or Permatex
has some, ect.. This will be spread on the outside of the pads, and the shim.
Otherwise, you will get the dreaded brake squeaking, squilling, ect...
Yes, it is very messy sooo have plenty of clean rags, paper towels just does not
work with that stuff!!!
Disc Brake Quiet (NAPA) - $2.29
I picked up a couple of cans of engine degresser, and brake spray cleaner. The degreaser was used after removing the tires, and spraying it all over the assembly. Nothing is worse, then working on greasy, nasty car parts... IMO
87 HF Rear Aluminum Drums
Aluminum Drums from a 84-87
HF can be fitted to any CRX with rear drum brakes. The aluminum drums are
lighter than steel drums or discs and they stop just as well, if not better than
disks.
Look into getting the "Rear Brake Hardware Kit", has all new springs, clips, ect... - Around $25.00
The drums do not come with the "Removal Holes", like the cast iron ones. Sooo, make sure you the drums will slide on. Otherwise if you try to beat them on, you will have to use some kind of puller to remove them. hehehehe
While your in the wheel wells... Might think about taking a small wire brush, and some PB Blaster. Use the wire brush to clean the build-up of rust and road crude, off as many bolt theads and heads as possiable. Brake fittings, bleeders (Be carful around the brake bleeder's little rubber caps), ect... Then spray with Blaster, that way when it comes time to replace the shocks, suspension bushing, brake lines, bleed the brakes, ect... This will give you a head start a on breaking some of them loose. Also, a little less risk of "stripping threads" and "twisting heads" of a bolts, ect...
Don't waste your time with WD40... It will evaporate and also draw moister, rather then re-pealing it causing even more rust...
The reason for "NAPA" getting all this mention is... There is one of their warehouse's down the street from me. Sooo, I don't have to go from one part store to another, looking for parts that are not in stock at the moment... hehehe
New info on swap... - HF rear braking plates are not needed when adding the drums. They are about half as heavy. This amounts to about 8-9 pounds.Goodridge
S.S brake lines -
$129.99 at importparts.
Master Cylinders - 90-91 Prelude Si NON-ABS to the list of Master Cylinders that are compatible with the CRX (minor hard line bending required).
|
Manufactor: |
Style: |
Part #: |
Size: |
Speed Rating: |
Price: |
Where |
|
BF Goodrich |
27306 |
185x60 R14 |
H |
$56.41 |
||
|
Nitto |
184560 |
P185/60R14 |
H |
$48.64 |
||
|
*Yokohama |
30901 |
P185/60R14 |
H |
$51.28 |
||
|
Yokohama |
03203 |
P185/60R14 |
H |
$108.10 |
|
Manufactor: |
Style: |
Part #: |
Size: |
Speed Rating: |
Price: |
Where |
|
Nitto |
183400 |
P195/50R15 |
V |
$65.85 |
||
|
BF Goodrich |
70156 |
P195/50R15 |
H |
$80.00 |
Wheels for CRX:
|
Manufactor: |
Type: |
Material: |
Size: |
Weight lbs.: |
Finish: |
TireSize: |
Price: |
Where: |
|
Borbet |
Cast |
15 x 7 |
16.5 |
Silver Painted |
195/50-15 |
$139ea/$556.00 |
Wheel Weights:
Some Stock &
Aftermarket Wheel Weights
Aftermarket Wheel Weights
Weight and Size Chart for
Performance Wheels
Bolt patterns, and
what orther car's wheels fit a CRX
Ideal Rim Sizes:
Factory Honda Lite's
88 CRX
Si Sawblade wheels will actually clear the 10.3" front brakes. They are 14x5 and
I have some Mickey Thompson 20x8x14 slicks mounted on them. They are 25 lbs with
tires. Combined that with the VX 22 lbs set up on the back, I'd save about 30
lbs weight vs. normal street tire setup.
OEM Wheel Names:
Hondas are VERY sensitive to wheel balance. Presumably you bought Honda wheels.. if not little can be done as they absolutely must be hub-centric (tight fitting to to centre of the hub and perfectly round) Get those wheels balanced, then see if there are other continuing problems
If the dash gauges stop working, try checking the turn siganl fuse. When it blows/fails, they will stop working.
Battary Drain Troubleshooting:
Hook up a multimeter to measure current between negative battery post, and the negative
battery cable (you have to disconnect the cable from the neg post. It should indicate if any
current is being drawn from the battery. Then remove one fuse at a time, to determine which
circuit is drawing the current (there may be more than one, but some you will be expecting
such as the clock) - you're looking for a pretty big drain if it's killing the battery in a
matter of hours. Once that's identified, then use your Helms manual to break down that
circuit to hopefully identify the source. A direct short to ground, would be blowing fuses
rather than draining your battery.
Zydene SECU Gold:
Zydene SECU Gold - $995.00
Zdyne File sharing
site - post CRX Resource
Zdyne Files
Zdyne File sharing
site
Just use a GMC Diesal Turbocharger Map sensor. Instead of Zydne's MAP.
Wide Band O2 Sensor:
Wide Band O2 Sensor
- OZ WideBand AFR Meter.
ECU Modes:
OPEN LOOP - this is the mode the ECU uses during warm-up, until the coolant
temperature, O2 sensors reach operating temps. Also during Wide Open Throttle (WOT)conditions the O2 sensor
output gets ignored by the ECU, due to the overly rich conditon. When certain error codes are generated
will put the ECU into "Limp Mode". Until it's been re-set or the failing sensor is
fixed/re-placed. During this time the engine is running very rich, and some performance issues
may be noted.
CLOSED LOOP - ECU uses information gathered primary from the MAP/PA, IAT and a few others (O2 Sensor do not contribute as much as we think). To adjusts Injector Pulse Width (PW) and timing, to achieve minimum emmisions and the best mpg for the current conditions.
Gauges:
|
Manufactor: |
Part #: |
Desc.: |
Price: |
Where: |
| *AutoMeter Single Gauge Pod |
20401 |
2 1/16 inch |
$21.78 |
|
| *AutoMeter Dual Gauge Pod |
20400 |
2 1/16 inch |
$28.01 |
|
| *AutoMeter Phantom A/F Ratio Gauge |
#5775 |
Full Sweep |
$55.12 w/d = $36.94 |
|
| AutoMeter Phantom Boost/Vaccum |
#5703 |
0-30 inch-Hg, 30 Full Sweep |
$49.34 w/d = $33.01 |
|
| Auto Meter Phantom - Fuel Pressure |
#5763 |
1-100psi inside, Full Sweep |
$204.84 w/d = $137.25 |
|
| #Intellitronix FUel Pressure Gauge |
K704 |
FP Gauge inside |
39.82 |
|
| #Intellitronix Fuel Pressure Sender |
#TH8434 |
FP Sender |
32.05 |
|
| #Intellitronix Air/Fuel Guage |
#K702 |
Air/ Fuel |
$66.43 |
|
| #Intellitronix Boost guage |
#D70150 |
Air/ Fuel |
$79.73 |
Autometer 92-95 Civic (triple pod) and heat it up with a heat gun and mold it
on.
Be carefuly to apply the heat SLOWLY.. friend did this on his prelude and
it works great.
