Ear Cropping

Ears - shall be high set, medium in size and of moderate thickness, folded forward close to the cheek. The top line of the folded ear should be level with the skull. If cropped, the ear length is in proportion to the size of the head and the ears are carried uniformly erect.

Show crops are very long and tall. To get them to stand takes the longest of any crop, sometimes requiring months of taping and retaping. These ears also have the highest failure to stand rate. The ears should be carefully examined by a knowledgeable breeder or vet before attempting a long crop, since weak or thin cartilage will not harden strong enough to stand. Also the ear "set" is important, that is How the ears "sit on the head".

"Broken ear" or "down ear". It is the number one cropping problem, usually because of leaving too little bell on the lower part of the ear (base), weak ear cartilage, inconsistent taping, and poor follow-up care are also culprits. "Fallen ears" usually tip one way or another, both will lean the same way most of the time. This usually occurs when the taping is done inconsistently or incorrectly.

Natural ears are becoming more popular, for several reasons. Some people question how "humane" it is to crop, sighting pain and the lack of necessity for cropping. There is a definite risk in the anesthesia with ANY surgery, and since many consider it not needed, the risk, to those people, seems extreme. The people who don't crop have mentioned that the problems with hematoma's (separations of the ears' skin layers, where blood collects after head shaking) and infections seem to be more common when the ears are down. Veterinarians who have given their advice are split as to whether the ears being natural contributes to more infections, and other problems, or not.

Obviously there are good and bad points to both sides so it is really up to you to decide what you want with your puppy.

How to Tape the Cropped Ears

The way in which you care for a cropped ear has a huge influence on whether or not that ear will ever stand properly. There are many methods of aftercare. I don't care for those that enclose the entire ear, creating a natural atmosphere for infection and the dreaded, 'gooies'. The gooies is that glopy gray gunk that you often find when untaping an ear that has been up for a week or so. The following method will prevent this and is very effective and comfortable for the dog.

Ears should not be taped until most of the scabs are healed after cropping surgery. If there are only 1 or 2 scabs left, you can cover those with cotton and a little of the antibiotic powder, and then tape over them.

1. A length of 1/2" fabric stay material found in a yardage store (ask for `boning' material). Cut these long enough to reach from the top of the "bump" (Illustration 1) of the ear to just past the ear tip.

2. Johnson & Johnson's "Zonas" adhesive tape. A 1" and a 1 1/2" roll. You'll probably find this at your vets, or a hospital supply although some drug stores carry it. I recently noticed something called "Sports Tape" by Johnson & Johnson in the drug store. It seems to be the same stuff. If you can't find 1 1/2" tape, just attach 2 1" pieces together lengthwise.

9. 3/4" diameter plastic hair curlers (or light weight PVC pipe) cut about 1 1/2" long. (A knife heated on the stove cuts the plastic easily).

A. After you've cut the rollers, use your scissors to cut away any rough edges from the cut ends. Take the wide tape and cover this roller completely, tucking the excess at the ends inside the roller. Then take the 1" tape and wrap it around the roller STICKY SIDE OUT. Set aside.

B. Cut 2 pieces from the 1" tape that extend about 1/4" past the stay material you've already cut. Lay one piece of tape down sticky side up. Center the stay on the tape. Take the next piece of tape and lay it on top of the stay with IT'S sticky side up making a "sandwich" of tape, stay, tape. Repeat with the second piece of tape. Now take the roller and stick the stay onto it with the unsticky side of the stay against the roller. Place the stay against the roller so that the bottom of the stay is even with the bottom of the roller (Figure #1). (As the ear grows, you can place the stay higher on the roller each time so that it is a little longer than the ear).

C. Next, cut 2 pieces each of 1 1/2" tape long enough to wrap twice around the base of the ear. Approximately 9" long. Cut 2 pieces each of 1" tape, approximately 9", 6" & 3" in length.

D. PREPARE THE EARS. Clean the ears well with alcohol and dry thoroughly. Next, using a couple Q-Tips, paint the ear with the Benzoin compound. Paint the inside of the ear from the "bump" (See Figure 2) to the tip. Paint the outside of the ear to the tip and pay particular attention to the outside of the base. Allow to dry until tacky, about 2-3 minutes.

E. Shake a small amount of the antibiotic powder in the little fold at the base of the ear on top of the head. (Figure 2). This will help prevent the "gooies" that usually start here.

F. Next take one of the roller/stay appliances and set it into the inside of the ear just resting on the "bump". Smooth and apply pressure until stuck firmly (Figure 3).

G. Take the 9" long piece of 1 ½" tape and wrap it around the base of the ear and curler as shown in Figure 4. It is important to keep tension on the ear at this point. You want the base pulled out from the head so you can tape it properly in order for it to stand (Figure 5). Wrap in the direction of the small ear fold at base of ear. Wrap snug but not too tight and angle the tape down into the base of the ear where it meets the head (Figure 6).

H. Now take the 9" piece of 1" wide tape and wrap it around the ear and roller about ¼" above the top of the roller. The 6" piece goes around the ear in the middle of the ear and the 3" wraps the very tip (Figure 6).

I. Repeat the procedure on the other ear. [Note that the ear will be pulled tighter into the roller more than shown in the illustration.] For the first couple tapings after cropping (that is, after the incisions have healed, sutures are removed and the rack is off) it's a good idea to brace the ears across the top of the head.

J. BRACING THE TAPED EARS (Figure 7). Cut a piece of "stay" material wide enough to span between the ears without rubbing the ears themselves, usually about 3 to 4". Cut a piece of 1" tape long enough to reach from one ear to the other, circle the ear, return to the first ear, circle it, and wrap about half way back to the other ear. Ears should be held erect, and allowed to turn into a naturally held position, usually slightly out from the side of the head. You'll need a helper here to hold the ears while you tape. (You need a helper throughout the entire procedure, for that matter!) Start taping at the front of one ear, span to the other, circle it around the back of this ear, to the front span then insert the stay and sandwich it between the two pieces of tape. Continue the tape around the second ear and back across the front. Be very careful not to twist or turn the ears out of their natural resting position. Cut a short (about 2") piece of 1" tape and wrap around the span between the ears a couple times so the stay will remain in place. You're done! Leave ears taped about a week, then take tape off and allow ears to rest for a day. Repeat until the ears are standing.

If the ears constantly flop forward or hang out to the side, you have not taped the bases close enough to the head. You can try putting another wrap of tape around the base and see if that works. If not, you'll have to retape the whole ear.

Figure 1	Figure 2
Figure 3	Figure 4
Figure 5	Figure 6
Figure 7

Ears Cropped or No?

How to Tape the Cropped Ears